Hola, once again, from Mexico City!
I’m here for a few days before meeting friends for a marathon of events and assignments—all two years overdue—and I’ve been retracing the well-worn paths I used to walk daily during the first lockdown in 2020. Much is the same, just as I left it, and much—including me—is so different.
I’ve learned a lot in the past two years. As border regulations have continued to fluctuate around us, I’ve gained a deeper appreciation for the places I already love. It feels so good to sit, once again, in Casa Tassel, where I’ve come many times for a quiet moment away from the chaos of reality, and to feel completely at ease because I know where I am and I know I’ll come back.
I’ll admit, there is a tiny part of me that thinks I’m doing this the “wrong” way, that I should make up for time lost when the city was shuttered around me, that I should go to a new neighborhood, a new taco stand, a new cafe, a new museum. But it feels so good to sit in my favorite cafes, to say hello, I’ve missed you, to pick up fresh, steaming tortillas sold by the kilo from a tiny shop a few blocks from my old apartment, to go to Green Corner, the organic grocery store, and buy the same chorizo I made killer breakfast tacos with two years ago. I’ve ordered the same teas, the same pastries, the same tacos. I’ve sat in the same parks, walked the same circle around Avenida Amsterdam, ordered my favorite dish—butter chicken—from my favorite curry spot, Nåm, bought the same rosemary-mint shampoo from the by-the-gram refill shop with handmade soaps. In the early days of lockdown, I invented reasons to buy more cleaning supplies for an excuse to visit that little corner of serenity and do such a simple thing—refilling a bottle I had emptied—that somehow made me feel vastly more settled and safe.
I used to be so obsessed with reaching for the next place and then the next, exchanging the old for the new, never repeating anything. But now I find so much more joy in revisiting the same old, same old corners of my life, and finding them just as I left them. We’ve both aged, grown, maybe gained a little character or wisdom. And yes, it’s always fun to experience new things, too, but is there any better feeling in the world than reconnecting with an old, trusted friend and picking up exactly where you left off, as if no time at all has passed and you don’t need to completely relearn one another? That feeling is even deeper for the ones who got you through the darkest days of lockdown, who provided hope and lightness and joy and comfort, simply by existing and accepting you as you were.
What I am saying is, Mexico City stands the test of time. If you haven’t been, you must go. And if you have, you must retrace your steps.
If you go: Come as soon as possible and stay at Ignacia Guesthouse, a gorgeous old mansion in leafy Roma. Arrive in time for cocktail hour. Book a taco and mezcal tour with Eat Like a Local, who will bring you around to places that aren’t overrun by tourists following guidebooks, and let the city welcome you with the best food on the planet. In the morning, rise early to beat the lines at Panadería Rosetta, and indulge in bollos de romero—rosemary buns—(heads up, they’re made with pork fat) and whatever bread is on special that day. Spend the day zig-zagging through verdant neighborhoods that bring new meaning to urban “jungle,” and stop often to stare greedily at ornate, vine-covered homes that have survived earthquake after earthquake. Pick up a book or a magazine at the imaginative Casa Bosques (take care not to walk into your own reflection, as I almost have), plunk yourself down on the sofa at Casa Tassel, and trust the barista to recommend a tea to match your mood.
Take one, two, three laps around Avenida Amsterdam, a perfect and scenic, tree-lined oval around Parque México that you’ll want to walk or run until your legs break, and notice something new with each turn. Buy a coconut from a street vendor, a heap of tacos al pastor from Tortas al Fuego, and eat them on a park bench in Parque México. You should soak up the contagious joy of families biking, roller skating, skateboarding, chasing dogs through the center of the park, and then you should buy some churros from El Moro. Take another tea break at Tomás Casa Editora del Té in Condesa, dine well at Azul—it’s a crime to skip the hot chocolate—or at Elly’s in Juarez, and then walk through the refrigerator at Hanky Panky and drink cocktails out of ostrich eggs.
In the morning, rise early to catch a colorful sunrise, and do it all over again but with different pieces. Get a cup of coffee from Quentin and walk slowly through Parques México and España and marvel at the dogwalkers managing a dozen or two leashes. If it’s a weekend, you might find pet adoption agencies in the park who will let you take puppies for a walk—the simplest, and best, of pleasures. Visit the museums in Bosques de Chapultepec, indulge in tasting menus at some of the world’s best restaurants, buy paintings directly from the artists at Bazar Sábado in San Ángel, and think about what your life might be like if you lived here. You should return home dreaming of taking yet another lap around Avenida Amsterdam, and then, some day in the not too distant future, you should come back and do it again.
Who and What I’m Endorsing
My business coach, Ellen Donnelly, who has completely revolutionized the way I think about my career (tell her I sent you), my writing coach, Natasha Khullar Relph, who has pushed me to write bigger, better, more, and more often than I ever have. Also: sunshine, tea time, city parks, tacos, more tacos, traveling with friends, and the good people at Inverlonan who have created a truly perfect off-grid getaway in northern Scotland. More on that soon.
Endorse Me?
I won’t bore you with the details, but I’m vying for a competitive visa to move to the United Kingdom long-term, and I have a few more boxes to check. A shameless request: if I’ve written something that’s moved you, and you’re so moved to share those sentiments with the world… some words about my work published by a discerning outlet, blog, newsletter, newspaper, etc. (not about me, but about my work) would go a long way to speeding up this process. I’m on the hunt for awards and residencies to apply for, and these worlds are pretty new to me so I’m sure there’s much I’m unaware of. Any and all advice would be most welcome.
What I’m Working On
Nearly two years after my travel writing career essentially dissolved overnight, I’m back on the road for work and I’m looking forward to what’s honestly a dream assignment. Starting next Wednesday, I’ll hit the road on assignment for Enterprise Rent-a-Car to visit the pueblos mágicos—magic towns—around Mexico City, then drive all along the coast of the Yucatan Peninsula. I’m adventuring with three of my all-time favorite people, and I am more excited than I can possibly express in words.
For nimble gear companies desperate for new content and able to move quickly: We’ve got one more collaboration opportunity if you can get product to Denver by Monday. Email me directly if you’d like to chat and copy the photographer on the project, Michael Ciaglo (michael.ciaglo@gmail.com).
For PR teams working in Querétaro, Puebla, Mexico City, and the Yucatan Peninsula, we’re still looking for suggestions for can’t-miss, car-friendly activities, art exhibitions, and restaurants. Our drive runs Feb. 23 through March 7. I can send our itinerary upon request.
Work With Me
I have availability to onboard one or two new clients for projects starting in late March. I’m looking to partner with outdoor- and travel-focused brands interested in creating original content on slow, intentional, sustainable travel. I’ve got talented photojournalists on board and we can find a way to work with your budget. Interested? Let’s chat.
What I’ve Been Writing (and Editing)
A look at cohousing and co-living communities around the U.S. and Europe, a fictional short story that’s been called achingly relatable, a newsletter about Rhode Island’s best and weirdest quirks, thousands and thousands of words in my journal, about everything and nothing.
Thanks!
For reading and making this fun. Please share this newsletter with a friend if you enjoyed it!